1500 - 1560
NEW MEN IN A NEW WORLD
As conquest, exploration, and wars expanded the known world, men's fashion broadened too.
Clothing expressed an assertive, confident masculinity through bulky layers that increased a man's physical presence.
Huge shoulders, broad chests, prominent codpieces, and an emphasis on the thighs all enhanced a sense of the active body.
The legs usually peeped out below knee-length skirted robes and jerkins and the newly separate breeches and hose.
Clothing complexity increased as linings and shirts burst through deliberately cut and slashed outer garments.
Embroidery and lines of braid also helped enrich the surfaces of clothing, largely replacing patterned textiles.
THE CODPIECE
The origins of the codpiece lie in the triangle of fabric used to join the two separate hose legs in the late 15th century when doublets shortened.
Soon padding was added and ended up as the codpiece - a prominent, suggestive shape filling the gap between the legs of the breeches.
It soon became a normal part of male clothing, in style across many countries and social levels until the end of the 1500s.
Tailors became as creative with codpiece shapes as with other clothing details.
The codpiece could hide a pocket or even be used as a pincushion.
公元1500 - 1560年
新人新世界
隨著已知世界被征服,探索和戰爭擴充,男性時尚也在擴張。
服裝通過龐大的層次表現出一種武斷,自信的陽剛之氣,它提升了男性身體的存在感。
巨大肩膀,寬闊胸膛,突出的生殖護具,以及對胯部的強調,都增強了身體活力的感覺。
雙腿通常在膝蓋長度的裙袍,緊身短上衣,和新式分腿馬褲下出現。
由于打底襯衣從刻意裁剪與留有開口的外衣中爆裂出來,服飾的復雜性增加了。
刺繡與編織的線條同樣有助于豐富服飾的表面,將印花織物取代了。
科蒂佩斯
科蒂佩斯(下體蓋布)的起源,是在十五世紀后期當上衣變短,一塊三角形織物被安置在兩腿之間。
很快襯墊又被加入,成為了一塊顯眼的,暗示性形狀的兩腿之間的填充物。
它很快成為男裝的日常部分,科蒂佩斯的流行橫跨許多國家與社會階層,直到十五世紀末。
裁縫師開始在下體蓋布的形狀上創新,同其他服飾細節一樣。
有的可以隱藏一個口袋,有的甚至用起來就像針墊。