小城美
文/顏克
作為國家外派教師在菲律賓工作半年多,被分配到一個風景如畫的山城碧瑤。但最想念的,依然是家鄉,素有北國小江南之稱的小城——舞鋼,此刻恨不得穿越時空,可以瞬間回家。
如問誰人最愛國,唯有海外游子心;如問誰人最念家,怕是遠方漂泊人。
當拉開思念的閘,家鄉的美景一幀幀在眼前流轉,我幾乎熱淚盈眶。我愛家鄉的每一寸土地,每一條河流,每一塊青石,每一片落葉……我想躺在春的柔美里呼吸油菜花的清香,我想暢游在夏的熱情里與游魚嬉戲,我想奔跑在秋的豐碩里牽著風箏起舞,我想融化在冬的純潔里感受溫暖的懷抱。
菲律賓沒有四季,雖然這個山城一年如春,可以永遠只穿一件T恤,每天都過得像昨天一樣,我依然無比懷念家鄉的四季分明。感受春、夏、秋、冬不同的韻味,對明天,充滿期待;對昨天,深深的眷戀!不經歷冬日嚴寒,怎知暖夏美好?
2014年12月中旬,馬上就到冬至了。冬天的鋼城,最有特色,先是冬把落葉樹打掃干凈,在落日的余暉里,傲得如剪影一般。住在山林里的舞鋼人,就開始去撿干樹枝了,留了冬天烤火,或者在院子里烤地瓜,烤野雞,總之,玩火,那是孩子們冬日里最炙熱的游戲。從初雪開始,對雪的期待越來越強烈,老人們總講過去的時候冬天的雪如何如何大。是的,在我的記憶里,一直有一個場景定格,中學美術專業備考那段日子,晚上要加課畫畫,回家時已經快十點了。在暖暖的路燈下,三個背著畫板的中學生,踩著沒過靴子的積雪深一腳淺一腳的嬉戲著打鬧著回家。轉眼十多年過去了,那場景仿佛就在昨天。去年家鄉的雪也很大,有一尺多厚,整個世界銀裝素裹,真的是美極了。早晨6點多,我就和“拍友”約了去拍雪景,燈臺架景區的霧凇是別具一格,當我們走進山門的時候,沒有一個腳印,這一片處女地,等我們去開墾。燈臺架的一山,一石,一路,一亭,都換了新裝,那黑白之間的色彩和構圖,不用取景,每一個角度都可以入畫。一行拍友中有一個孩子,十來歲的樣子,才老實了一會兒,就和我們打起了雪仗,我們哪是孩子的對手啊,護著相機還要躲著雪球,索性我們放下裝備和孩子鬧了起來,一群老小孩比小小孩還會玩。瘋累了就躺在雪地里,被群山環繞,被素白擁抱,美哉快哉樂哉。還沒等歇過來,孩子又讓我們一起堆雪人,我們便和孩子一起,堆了大大小小幾個白白胖胖的雪人,等我們離開了,就讓這雪人守望在這美景里吧。臨別時我們約好,等太陽出來了再來拍冰凌,那將是另一番精致。
冬的嚴寒還沒有退去,春就從山的南坡,一步一步的挪移,悄無聲息的,先是小草使勁地鉆出腦袋,零星的綠點染樹林,然后湖畔的冰凌化開了,春水就那么蕩漾起來。春又一步一步的爬上柳樹,垂柳冷不丁的冒出一個嫩芽,春,就這么來了。人們也從暖暖的被窩里爬出來,呼吸春的氣息和青草的淡香,一點一點,窗前的塔松也換了新裝,偶有一只伸進窗里,像含羞草一樣,叫醒臥室里的我。哦,春,我迫不及待舒活筋骨,沿著春的腳步,去看她留下的足跡。迎春花黃燦燦的,桃花也粉了,梨花白了,接著是油菜花,在山坡上,一步一步走過去,眼力所及,沒有一處相同,走在蜿蜒的山路里,枝頭的淺綠,麥地的中綠,山坡的濃綠,草地的青綠,還有那點點的光線下變幻的綠,真的沒有更恰當的文字來形容。鋼城的春,你必須要親自走過才能感知,只一眼,畫卷一樣的春之歌,會定格在你的腦海里,一輩子。山下小河邊的村姑也開始了在河邊的刷洗,挽起袖子,露出腳丫,再拿個棒槌,和著鳥兒歡樂的叫聲,和同伴的嬉笑聲,鋼城春日的生活就是如此。在舞鋼的西山兜了一圈,回到市中心的龍泉湖畔,你再也不想坐在車里,沿著湖畔的河堤,垂柳依依,風吹動它的長發,也吹動你的春心。這時候槐花飄香,整個鋼城都在甜絲絲的槐花香里,二郎山的槐花節會吸引方圓百里的人們,來這大自然的氧吧呼吸,感受魅力的槐花和迎春的美食。此刻,山間的農家院便開始熱鬧起來,即使不是周末或節假日,也有愛吃野味的人從城市尋來山莊,蘑菇燉野雞,野豬肉,槐花包子,地籠炒雞蛋,鯽魚面片,烙饃卷小菜……這讓遠在異國他鄉的我一想起來就口水直流。家鄉的美食,太誘惑了。酒足飯飽去踏青,鋼城的每一寸土地,都值得你用雙腳去丈量。
人們總說春宵苦短,鋼城的春,仿佛更短,還沒有來得及和春擁抱,她就悄悄的北上了,夏在第一聲知了的叫聲中來臨。不知不覺,后山上的林子已經變得濃綠,街上的姑娘們也換上了飄揚的長裙,湖畔的沙灘上多了游泳的人,山里的小河邊帳篷多了,燒烤開始了。最期待夏天去河里摸螃蟹,仿佛尋寶一樣,看著一只只肥蟹裝滿竹簍,仿佛就聞到了蟹香,那是自己勞動的收獲。偶爾也會抓幾條小魚,或是遇見泥鰍,就是意外的收獲了,有時候也有河蝦,但我常常抓不到,抓蝦是需要專業技術的。奶奶說遇到小螃蟹了就把它放回去,雖然奶奶沒有什么大道理,但我們也都這樣做了。在小河邊的樹林里支起燒烤架,綁上吊床,男人們開始準備美食,女人和孩子玩耍,撿石頭,畫樹葉,或是脫了鞋子在河里嬉戲,夏是孩子的樂園,小河是孩子的伙伴。當第一縷羊肉串的香味兒刺激你的味蕾,便開始了大口吃肉大碗喝酒,這情景既有梁山好漢的好爽曠達,又有林泉高士的野逸舒爽,還有幾分大觀園里粉質香娃們割腥啖膻的活絡任性。旁邊也許還有三五成群吆五喝六猜拳的、打撲克的吆喝的,沒有關系,仿佛在這片樹林里的人們是一個大家庭,無論你來自家鄉,還是遠方,都是微笑地打招呼,或是交換彼此的美食相互品嘗一下。鋼城的人們,是像鋼城的夏一樣熱情的,泉水里冰鎮的西瓜是夏季最美味的水果,切開分給鄰桌的食客,這甜蜜從舌尖一下子就到了心頭。
夏季賞荷也是來到鋼城必不可少的一項雅玩。單不說湖畔或是野地的荷有著這樣那樣的風情,只是瑞祥牧業的萬畝生態荷塘就足以讓你流連忘返。畫家、詩人、攝影師是這里的常客,每一朵荷每一天每一個角度,都會有展示出不同的風姿,或嫵媚,或清純,亦或妖嬈,你能想象到的或是想不到的,那荷,就在一片碧波里靜靜盛開。泛舟荷塘,仿佛游在畫卷里,滿滿的荷香讓你心靜如蓮,鋼城的夏,寂靜美好。
當楓葉由綠變紅,樹梢好像也多了幾點黃,清晨打掃院子,銀杏葉不知何時擺出了它特有的姿態,像一把把被擱置的小扇子,被遺忘在時光里。真是一葉知秋。我不忍心打掃它們,索性泡一壺清茶,在這稍有涼意的清晨,等待太陽升起。太陽還暖暖的,玉米地卻都黃了,胖胖的玉米棒子裂開了嘴等著收貨。這時候的山里多了拎著麻袋的人。九頭崖,五峰山,或是不知名的小山,栗子、山楂、柿子、野葡萄、酸棗、山梨、蘋果,擠擠扛扛的成熟了,每次進山,都會有不同的收獲。最愛家鄉的野葡萄釀的葡萄酒,獨特的口味讓外來的游客必定想盡辦法帶走一些。還有山上的野菜也都成為鋼城的名片,在勤勞的鋼城人手里變成商品出口世界。山村里的小路邊堆滿了林條的架子,木耳,香菇,平菇,這些大樹的孩子成為我們的美食,秋是喜樂的,忙碌的,最清閑的是漫山遍野的野菊花,靜靜地開放,為秋守望。當一串串玉米掛在屋檐,當農民開始犁地播撒下一季的種子,秋是收獲的,也是充滿希望的。當落葉鋪滿山間小徑,當又一批小孩子背著書包踏入校門,秋就這樣羽翼豐滿的庇護著小城的人們。這樣寧靜而幸福的小城生活會一直美好著,延續著!
深夜的菲律賓還是有一絲涼意,我起身披上外套,想象著家鄉的秋,明天,是否會有一片黃葉飄落窗臺?拾起它夾在書頁里,把家鄉的色彩留進歲月的記憶。
靜夜,思念雅望故鄉小城的天空……
A Small Beautiful City
As a national expatriate teachers working in Philippines for more than half a year, I was assigned to a picturesque mountain city —?Baguio. But?What?I miss the most, is still my hometown, which is known as the small town of southern country, Wuyang Iron and Steel Co., Ltd., now I am eagerly to go home by going through time and space.
If asked who is the most patriotic overseas Chinese, only the heart of the overseas Chinese; if asked who miss home the most, it is the people who are far away from home.
When disjoin the gate of my thought, the beauty of the home is in front of a frame transfer, I almost cry with tears. I love every inch of the hometown, every river, every piece of the stone, every piece of the falling leaf...... I want to lay in the spring of soft breathing the fragrance of rape, I want to swim in the summer in the enthusiasm and play with the fish, I would like to run in the autumn of fruitful in holding the kite dance, I want to be melt in the winter of pure feeling of warm embrace.
The Philippines has no seasons, although this mountain a year such as spring, always wearing a T-shirt, every day was like yesterday, I still miss my hometown with clear four seasons. Feel the charm of spring, summer, autumn and winter, to tomorrow, ?I am full of expectation; and to yesterday, deeply attached to it.! Do not experience the winter cold, how to feel the warm summer?
In the mid of December 2014, immediately to the winter solstice. In winter the steel city, the most distinctive, is the first winter deciduous clean trees, in the afterglow of sunset, proud as general silhouette. the people in Wugang who live in the mountains began to pick up the dry branches, leave the branches for the winter warming, or in the yard they baked sweet potato, roast pheasant, in short, to play with fire. It is the hottest games for children in the winter. From the beginning, they expect the snow very much, the old people always speak in the past when the winter has heavy snow. Yes, in my memory, there has been a scene frozen, in that time of the middle school for arts preparation, at night, we add a lesson painting, it’s 10 pm when we got home. in the warm street, three carrying slate of the middle school students, stepping the snow and playing slapstick home. More than 10 years past, the scene seems to be yesterday. Last year, the hometown of snow was also heavy, there was more than a foot thick snow, the whole world is really beautiful. At 6 o'clock in the morning, I and "clap friend" was about to take the snow scene, Candlestick Holder scenic rime is unique, when we entered the gate, no a footprint, this piece of virgin land, waiting for us to cultivate. Candlestick Holder of a mountain, a stone, a road, a pavilion, changed new clothes, between the black and white color and composition without framing, every angle can be picturesque. A shoot friend has a child, teenage appearance, only honest for a moment, playing the snow battle with us, which of us is not the opponent's child ah, guarding the camera would also hide a snowball, we simply put down equipment and play with children, a group of old children are much more than children who will play. Crazy tired of lying in the snow, surrounded by mountains, white is beautiful hug, playing happily. After that, the children let us together make a snowman, we and children together, the heap of the large and a few small plump snowman, we leave and let the snow man watch in the beauty of it. When we go out, the sun come to shoot the ice, it will be another scenery.
The cold winter has not receded, the spring is from the southern slope of the mountain, step by step the diversion, silent, first grass hard drilled head, sporadic green dyed woods, and then the ice of the lake open, spring so ripple up.?Spring is a step-by-step climb willow, willow went out a bud suddenly, spring, so come.?People climb out from the warm quilt, breathing the spring breath and grass fragrance, bit by bit, window pines also changed new clothes, occasionally a stuck in the window, like a mimosa, wake me in the bedroom. Oh, spring, I am unable to hold oneself back and relaxed, along with the pace of the spring, to see her footprints. Winter jasmine is yellow, the peach blossom pink, white pear flower, followed by rape, on the hillside, go through a step by step, vision and, no different, walking in the winding mountain road, green branches, Guinea is mid green, stroll the hillside, grass green, changes in that little bit of light green, really no more appropriate word to describe. Frank spring, you must personally walked to perceive, only one eye, the scroll spring song, fixed in your mind, for a lifetime. In the Mountain river lake, a small countryside girl also began to wash in the river, rolled up his sleeves and exposing the feet, with a wooden stick, laughing and the birds a shout of joy, and a fellow, Frank spring of life is so. In the western mountain of Wugang pocket a circle, back to the downtown of Longquan Lake, you don't want to sit in the car, along the lake bank, so many weeping willows, the wind blows it long hair, blowing your lust. This time flower fragrance, the Frank is in the sweet fragrance of Acacia, Erlang mountain of Flos Sophorae festival will attract people hundreds of miles, to the nature of the oxygen breathing, feel the charm of Flos Sophorae and winter food. At the moment, the mountain farm homes began to warm up, if not on weekends or holidays, but also love to eat meat and people from the city to find villa, mushrooms stewed pheasant, wild boar, sophora flower steamed stuffed bun, cage scrambled eggs, patches of crucian carp, pancake roll dishes... This makes me think of the water in a foreign country.. Home food, too temptation. Go outing after dinner, every inch of land is worth you frank, with feet to measure.
People always say that spring night is bitter and short, the spring in steel city, as if it was shorter, there is no enough time and embrace the spring , she went quietly to the north, summer in the first sound cicada calls coming. Unconsciously, on the back of the mountain woods has become a stroll, the girls in the street for the flying skirt, there are so many swimmers on lakeside beach, more tents are near the river in the mountain, barbecue begins. Most looking forward to catching crabs near the river in summer, like finding the treasure, watching a lot of fat crabs were put baskets fully, as if I can smell the fragrant crab, the harvest of their own labor. Occasionally catch a few fish, or meet loach, is an unexpected harvest. Sometimes there are shrimps, but I always can't catch, catch shrimp is in need of professional technology. Grandma said to me, When I met a little crab, I should put it back to the river, although my grandma has no big reason, but we also do so. In small riverside, in the woods, we set up the grill of barbecue, tied the hammock, the men began to prepare food, women and children play, picked up a stone, leaf paintings or take off the shoes playing in the river, summer is a paradise for children, the river was the child's partner. When the first ray of mutton smell to stimulate your taste buds, began to drink and eat with the big bowl, the scene both Liangshan hero nice and cool broad-minded, and the excellent persons in Lin Quan who has the wild ease comfortable feeling and sort of Grand View Garden in silty Xiangwa are cut fishy smell of mutton of gobbling up the active self willed. Next to perhaps there are small groups of shouting, playing finger game in five or in six, playing poker shouting, it doesn’t matter, as if people in the woods is a big family, regardless of you come from home, or distance, all of them are smile to say "hello", or is the exchange of each other's food tasting the next. People in steel city, is as warm as summer season and iced watermelon in the spring is the most delicious summer fruit, we cut the watermelon and gave diners at a nearby table, this sweet from the tip of the tongue of a sudden came to mind.
in the summer time, enjoy lotus is an essential to steel city. Not say a single lake or wild lotus with this kind of style, just Ruixiang animal husbandry million mu of ecological pond is enough to let you indulge in pleasures without stop. Painter, poet, photographer is a frequent visitor here, every lotuses covering every day every angle will show a different charm, or charming, or pure, or enchanting, you can imagine or think, the lotus, in a piece of blue waves quietly blooming. On the pond, like swimming in the picture, full of lotus let you calm summer lotus, the summer is steel city, quiet and beautiful.
When maple leaf turns from green to red, trees seem to have much a few yellow, early in the morning to sweep the courtyard, Ginkgo biloba did not know when placed its unique posture, like one small fan which is set aside, forgotten in time. It is a leaf which knows the autumn in the wind. I don't want to clean them, simply make a pot of tea, slightly cool in the morning, waiting for the sun to rise. The sun is warm, the corn is yellow, fat corn cobs split open the mouth waiting for the receipt. This time more bags of people in the mountains. Jiutou cliff, Wufeng mountain, or unknown hills, chestnut, hawthorn, persimmon, grapes, jujube, pear, apple, which squeeze and carry, being mature, each time when we enter the mountains, we will have different harvest. Favorite hometown wild grape wine, unique taste so that visitors will try to take some of the exotic. There are wild vegetables mountains which have become city card, in the hands of hard-working people in steel city, a commodity exports all over the world. Village beside the road filled with wood shelf, edible fungus, mushrooms, Pleurotus ostreatus, children of these trees become our food, autumn is the joy, busy, the leisure is all over the mountains and plains of the wild chrysanthemum, quietly open, watch for the autumn. When a string of corn is hanging from the roof, when farmers began to plough and sow the seeds of one season, autumn is harvest, but also full of hope. When the leaves covered with mountain trails, when a group of children back schoolbag entered the gates, autumn so full-fledged shelter people in a small town. Such a quiet and happy small town life will always be fine, continue!
In the Philippines in the middle of the night, still have a trace of coolness, I stood up and put on the coat, imagining the autumn in my hometown, tomorrow, will have a piece of yellow leaves falling sill? Pick it up and clip it in the page, leaving home the color of the years to stay in memory.
In the quiet night, miss the sky of my home town ......
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