1625 - 1635
MEN IN LACE
By the mid 1620s, with a new king, Charles I, on the English throne, the heavily padded doublets of King James I's reign (also widely worn in courts across continental Europe) were passing out of fashion.
New, longer doublets in plain or subtly patterned silks replaced the tabbed styles made of the heavy woven and embroidered fabrics that were popular earlier in the 17th century.
Breeches, too, changed in shape.
They became much longer, reaching to mide-calf level, and were worn with soft leather boots rather than decorated shoes.
Neckwear such as circular ruffs (held out behind the head by a wire support called a supportasse or a pickadil) began to fall out of fashion and give way to extravagant lace collars.
The plainer fabrics of the new-style doublet were a perfect foil for such accessories, and this became a boom time for lace makers.
Lavish quantities of elaborately patterned lace were used for every accessory, from cuffs and collars to handkerchiefs and boot hose.
Flemish bobbin lace was widely available, but the new fashions benefited every lace-making center in Europe.
THE DOUBLET
The padded jacket that men wore in the first part of the 17th century was known as the doublet.
This garment had several variations in shape and style.
The one illustrated here has deep stiffened tabs and is made of figured, paned silk.
Doublets were attached to trunk hose (the short, puffed breeches that were fashionable in this period) with points or ties, which held the two parts of the outfit together.
The fastenings were called "points" because of the pointed metal ends of the laces.
They were often made of silver and gold thread, and added decorative trimming to the doublet.
1625 - 1635
蕾絲男子
十七世紀(jì)二十年代中期，新國(guó)王查理一世在英國(guó)上位。詹姆斯一世時(shí)期的厚重夾棉雙排扣夾克（同樣在歐洲大陸宮廷穿著廣泛）已經(jīng)脫離時(shí)尚。
新的，更長(zhǎng)的平紋或精巧圖案絲綢夾克替代了十七世紀(jì)早期大受歡迎的重型梭織與繡花面料的樣式。
馬褲也改變了形狀。
他們變得更長(zhǎng)，到小腿肚，搭配的靴子也是柔軟的皮靴而不是裝飾性鞋子了。
領(lǐng)子就像個(gè)圓形花邊（通過(guò)支撐使之在后部后方也能展開(kāi)，我們稱之supportasse或者pickadil）也不再時(shí)髦，取而代之的是奢華蕾絲領(lǐng)。
新款?yuàn)A克的平紋面料是對(duì)配飾的最好襯托，使之成為蕾絲制造者的繁榮時(shí)代。
精細(xì)圖案蕾絲被用在所有配飾上，從袖口領(lǐng)子到手帕和緊身褲。
弗蘭德線軸編織花邊被廣泛使用，但新時(shí)尚使得歐洲每個(gè)蕾絲制造中心都受益匪淺。
短款?yuàn)A克
十七世紀(jì)男性最早期穿著的夾棉夾克人們稱之為doublet雙排扣夾克。
這款服裝有好些形狀與款式的變化。
這里展示的具有深切口的款式，由花紋雜色絲綢制成。
雙排扣夾克搭配箱型褲（短款，膨脹馬褲在這個(gè)時(shí)期是時(shí)尚的）以綁帶或釘扣固定，將兩片固定在一起。
固定件被稱為“point“釘扣因?yàn)橐越饘賵A扣固定。
它們通常由銀與金絲線制成，并加以裝飾。
