FROM GLAMOUR TO UTILITY

1929 - 1946

The Wall Street Crash in the fall of 1929 brought the Roaring Twenties to an abrupt halt.

Hemlines dropped suddenly while waistlines rose to a little above the natural waist—the reign of the youthful flapper was truly over.

DEPRESSION HITS, HEMLINES FALL 1930

“Austerity day wear” for women was angled and slim fitting, with wide shoulder pads and calf-length skirts.

During the day, the slimline silhouette was broken up and softened with clever seaming, belts, novelty buttons, deep cuffs, and pussy bows.

In the evening, the focus shifted from legs to plunging backs with designers such as Lanvin, Mainboucher, and Chanel producing shimmering, floor-length dresses.

FLYING DOWN TO RIO PARIS FRED ASTAIRE AND GINGER ROGERS FOR THE FIRST TIME. 1932

FASHION AT THE MOVIES

During the 1930s New York ready-to-wear designers developed a new style that seemed to embody the nation’s values.

Their practical approach resulted in easy-to-wear pieces that could be adapted to different occasions by mixing and matching.

At the opposite end of the scale, Hollywood designers Adrian, Walter Plunket, and Travis Banton created glamorous outfits for stars such as Jean Harlow, Joan Crawford, and Marlene Dietrich.

These Hollywood styles were arguably the biggest influence on fashion in the 1930s.

FIRST SHORTS AT WIMBLEDON 1934

EFFECTS OF THE WAR

The start of World War II in 1939 brought an end to lavish, excessive designs.

Many countries established a rationing system, trying to prevent the waste of scarce resources and ensure a fair distribution of garments.

Decorative features such as excessive pleating and lace were abandoned, leading to simplified styles that constituted a kind of civilian uniform.

Paris retained a skeletal couture industry after the invasion in 1940, but the rest of the world was cut off from French fashion dictates.

NYLON IS INVENTED BY WALLACE CAROTHERS AT DUPONT'S RESEARCH FACILITY. 1935

從魅力到實用

1929 - 1946

1929年秋天的華爾街金融危機，促使咆哮的二十年代嘎然而止。

下擺線驟然下降，而腰圍則上升到自然腰線上一點，年輕女郎的統治時代已經正式結束。

MRS. WALLIS SIMPSON'S WEDDING DRESS 1936

女士的“吝嗇日常服裝”是有棱角并且貼身剪裁的，伴隨著寬肩帶和小腿半身裙。

在白天，細長的輪廓被打破，取而代之的是柔和的巧妙縫線，腰帶，新奇按鈕，深袖口與系帶蝴蝶結襯衫。

在晚上，焦點從腿部轉移到來自Lanvin，Mainboucher與Chanel等設計師制造的露背地板長度閃爍連衣裙。

ROSIE THE RIVETER IS THE STAR OF A SONG THAT PRAISES THE AMERICAN WOMEN WORKING IN FACTORIES. 1942

電影中的時尚

二十世紀30年代，紐約的成衣設計師開發出一種看起來能體現國家價值觀的新風格。

他們的做法致使那些容易穿著的單品，可以通過混合和搭配來適應不同的場合。

小規模的，好萊塢設計師Adrian，Walter Plunket和Travis Banton為諸如Jean Harlow，Joan Crawford和Marlene Dietrich等明星都創造了迷人的戰衣。

這些好萊塢風格可以說是二十世紀30年代時尚界的最大影響。

GONE WITH THE WIND 1939

戰爭的影響

1939年開始的第二次世界大戰將奢侈，過度的設計終結。

許多國家建立了配給制度，旨在防止稀缺資源浪費與確保服裝的公平分配。

裝飾性特征例如過度褶皺與花邊遭到遺棄，這催生出一種民用制服的簡化風格來。

巴黎在1940年入侵后保留下了時裝業的骨架，但世界其他地區都從法國時尚領導中被剝離出來了。

THE FIRST PARIS COLLECTIONS AFTER THE WAR FORESHADOW DIOR'S NEW LOOK OF 1947.