#每天讀一點服裝史# BAROQUE AND ROCOCO

1625 - 1789

BAROQUE AND ROCOCO

Opulence, grandeur, heavy ornamentation, and rich colors were the defining characteristics of fashion throughout Europe in the 17th century.

No one demonstrated this baroque style to greater effect than King Carl Gustav of Sweden, who wore such a richly decorated doublet at his coronation in 1654 that the fabric beneath the embroidery was completely invisible.

The baroque style was set at the royal court in France, where the stiff-bodiced, heavy-skirted court dress known as the grand habit was established in the splendor of Louis XIV's Versailles.

The fabrics for these stately clothes were produced across Europe, but the French silk industry, centered in Lyon, dominated.

Farther afield, the influx of goods from Asia via trading organizations such as the Dutch East India Company, founded in 1602, meant that printed cottons and painted silks from India and China flooded the European fashion market.


Henrietta Maria



ROCOCO LIGHTNESS

By the 18th century there was a move in the decorative arts toward a lighter, more flowing aesthetic known as the rococo, which was reflected in fashion.

This could be seen in the curving lines of the silk designs produced by such craftspeople as Anna Maria Garthwaite and the Spitalfields silk weavers in London, many of them protestant Huguenots who had fled religious persecution in France.

Gone was the boned bodice and skirt, to be replaced first by a loose, full-skirted gown known as a mantua, and then by an open robe and petticoat.

Men's doublet and hose had disappeared too, giving way to coat and breeches.


Louis XIV



REVOLUTIONARY SPIRIT

By about the 1770s England was setting the principal style in men's dress with the coat called the frock, worn by men for countryside pursuits.

This more informal look was taken up in revolutionary America and even in France, the center of fashion, where the revolutionary leaders opted for styles that set them apart from the aristocratic and increasingly isolated Ancien Regime.

It was around this time, too, that cottons and muslins traded from the East became the new wonder fabrics, and women's dress took on a softer silhouette.


Flower patterned silk designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite



公元1625 - 1789年

巴洛克與洛可可

富饒,宏偉,著重裝飾及色彩是十七世紀歐洲的時尚特征。

沒有人會不承認這種巴洛克式的風格比瑞典的卡爾古斯塔夫國王更有影響力,國王在1654年加冕時,穿著一件精美裝飾的雙扣上衣,面料在刺繡下完全看不見了。

巴洛克風格基于法國皇室宮廷,在輝煌的路易十四凡爾賽宮中,建立了一套穿著僵硬上身,厚重裙擺的宮廷禮服禮儀。

這些富麗堂皇的服飾面料在歐洲生產,但以法國絲綢制造業的中心里昂,為主導地位。

更遠的,來自亞洲的商品則通過貿易組織,例如1602年成立的荷蘭東印度公司,這意味著來自印度和中國的印花棉與絲綢充斥了歐洲時裝市場。


Oliver Cromwell



明亮洛可可

到了十八世紀,裝飾藝術走向一種更輕,更流暢的審美,同時反映在時尚中,它被稱之為洛可可。

你可以從倫敦的Anna Maria Gathwaite以及Spitalfields絲綢編織商的工匠們那里看到絲綢設計的曲線,他們中有很多人是在法國宗教迫害時逃離的新教徒。

一種寬松,拖地裙長的袍子就像mantua(女外套)這樣有長袍開口,能看見襯裙的服裝,代替了之前的去骨胸衣與半身裙。

男性雙排扣短上衣與軟包腿連褲襪也消失了,取而代之的是大衣與馬褲。


Madame de Pompadour



革命精神

大約十七世紀七十年代,是設定男裝主要風格的時代,外套叫做frock(女上衣),由追求鄉村風格的男士穿著。

這種不拘禮節的穿著方式被革新的美國甚至時尚中心法國所接受,領袖們選擇將他們的風格與貴族和越來越被孤立的安蒂斯政權區分開來。

也是在這個時候,來自東方的棉花與棉布成為新奇的面料,女裝輪廓也更加柔軟起來。


George III
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