#每天讀點服裝史# OPULENCE RESTORED

1660 - 1685

OPULENCE RESTORED

With the Restoration of the monarchy in 1660, opulence returned to fashion in England.

The justaucorps (knee-length coat) took over from the doublet as the main garment in a man's wardrobe.

Its body was longer and straighter than the doublet, falling to the knee and closing down the front with small buttons from neck to hem.

The lower part of the coat known as the skirt had back and side openings (to allow a sword to poke through).

JUSTAUCORPS


Gradually it became tighter on the waist and fuller at the hem.

Sleeves were wide with turned-back cuffs.

The waistcoat was worn underneath -- it was the same length but narrower in cut than the coat, with long, fitted sleeves.

Breeches were still worn full and short to just below the knee, often decorated with bows and ribbon trimmings.

By the 1680s breeches became slimmer in fit and fastened at the knee.

LOUIS XIV JUSTAUCORPS WITH LONG CURLED FULL-BOTTOMED WIGS.


CHARLES II

In 1660 King Charles II returned from exile in France to take the English throne.

He was known for his love of fashionable dress and introduced styles from the French court.

In 1666 he introduced a more sober style of dressing of a coat, waistcoat (vest), and breeches in black silk over white.

This is seen as the origin of the three-piece suit.

CHARLES II


公元1660 - 1685年

富裕復興

隨著1660年君主制恢復,富裕風格又回到英國的時尚中來。

究斯特科爾justaucorps(及膝大衣)替換了男士衣柜中的雙排扣夾克成為主要款式。

它的上身比雙扣夾克更修長更挺直,垂到膝蓋并閉合的前門襟以小紐扣自頸部到下擺處裝飾一排。

大衣的下半部類似裙子,有后背與側面的開口(以方便配件穿過衣服)。

假發,寬袖口長外套,前排小扣與馬褲。


漸漸地腰部變得更緊,下擺更飽滿。

袖子寬大伴隨折返回來的袖口。

馬甲穿在底下, 長度與大衣相等但剪裁更加貼身。

馬褲依舊全套穿戴,長短在膝蓋之下,經常以蝴蝶結與絲帶裝飾。

直到1680年代,馬褲才變得更加貼身并綁定在膝蓋上。

細長外套,前排小扣,寬袖口邊,馬褲。


查爾斯二世

1660年,國王查爾斯二世從法國回到英國奪回王位。

他以熱愛時尚服飾而聞名,并且引進了法國宮廷款式。

1666年,他帶回一系列以白色襯衣外套黑色絲綢的,更理性的外套,馬甲與馬褲。

這看起來就是西服三件套的起源。

黑色三件套
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