格陵蘭系列3:世界級的荒野 World-class wilderness

?? ? (原文取自格陵蘭航空公司雜志《Suluk》2017年02期)

An old dream has come true. Over the next couple of years, Greenland could have one or two areas designated as ?sites of significant importance to humanity ?. – It is high time, says expert。

一個古老的夢想成為現實。在接下來的幾年里,格陵蘭有一個或兩個地區可能要被指定為“對人類有重要價值的地點”。——現在是時候了,專家說。
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???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?——Text: Niels Ole Qvist ?作者:Niels Ole Qvist

Everywhere, tourism bosses are licking their lips at the prospect of areas becoming designated UNESCO world heritage sites. The list of sites includes more than 1000 attractions- iconic buildings like the pyramids and the Great Wall of China; places like the wonderful Australian coral reef, the Grand Canyon and the Galápagos Islands.
無論什么地方,旅游業的老板們都垂涎欲滴地期盼自家的哪個地區能被聯合國教科文組織指定為世界文化遺產保護地。這個地點的名單包括1000多個名勝古跡——標志性建筑,像埃及金字塔和中國的長城;或者像澳大利亞大堡礁、科羅拉多大峽谷以及加拉帕戈斯群島(太平洋東部的火山群島,屬于厄瓜多爾)這樣的景點。
At present, Greenland is represented with one site: the Ilulissat Icefjord. But in July, when the 21 members of the heritage committee sit down around the oval table in Krakow, Poland, it will be time to hold one’s breath. Here, it will be decided if the farming culture in South Greenland is to be included in this distinguished company.

? ? ? ? (上圖)South Greenland has a history with Vikings, Norse and Inuit.維京海盜、挪威人和因紐特人一起構成了格陵蘭南部的古老歷史。


目前,格陵蘭有一處代表性地點:Ilulissat的冰峽灣。但是在六月,當21名遺產委員會成員在波蘭的克拉科夫圍坐在橢圓桌子前,那將是一個屏息等待的緊張時刻。屆時將決定這個格陵蘭南部的農業文明是否能夠進入這個杰出隊伍。
There is a lot at stake. UNESCO’s stamp of approval can result in a stream of tourists and help to lift the entire region. World heritage sites are often at the top of the list when cruise ships plan their summer routes and travel agents promote their new holiday destinations.


這里有許多利害關系。聯合國教科文組織的認證能夠帶來游客的涌入,幫助帶動整個地區旅游業發展。世界遺產景點常常是游輪夏天旅游路線計劃的首選,也是旅游公司極力推銷的新的度假目的地
– When tourists with deep pockets book their holidays, they go directly after UNESCO heritage sites. The importance
can hardly be overestimated, says department head Lise Lyck, Copenhagen Business School, who has worked with Greenland’s business community for several years.
——“當有經濟實力的游客計劃他們的度假,他們會直接選擇聯合國教科文組織世界遺產地。其重要性怎么高估也不過分”,哥本哈根商學院系主任Lise Lyck說。Lise Lyck已經與格陵蘭商業界合作了許多年。


– Throughout the realm, there has been too much reluctance to exploit these opportunities. But now things are moving, also in Greenland, and that is really good, she adds.
——“在整個(丹麥)王國,利用這些因素曾經有太多阻力。但是現在事情向前推進中。”

? ? ? ? ? (上圖)The Crown Prince Couple was in East Greenland last summer, where they enjoyed the good weather, the beautiful nature and were informed about how things were going with the application to be added to the list of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites.
丹麥王國王儲夫婦去年夏天造訪格陵蘭東部,享受怡人天氣和絢麗風景,并聽取關于申遺材料遞交和進展情況的回報。

The exam 考試


When you visit South Greenland in summer, it is impossible not to be seduced by the magic of nature; the verdant valleys, icebergs sparkling in the sun, bleating sheep, towering mountain peaks and picturesque fjords. The light nights alone can induce an extra heartbeat.
當你在夏天到訪南部格陵蘭,你不可能不被神奇的大自然吸引;青翠的山谷,陽光下閃閃發光的冰山,咩咩叫的綿羊,高聳的山峰,還有風景如畫的海灣。單是那明亮的夜晚,就足以給你格外的怦然心動。

But UNESCO’s world heritage list is not a beauty pageant. The area’s magic also play a role in the evaluation, but there should also be a significant story to tell. The place must be ?of significant importance to humanity ?as it is stated in the criteria.
但是教科文組織的世界文化遺產的認定不是選美比賽。這個地方的神奇發揮著重要作用,但也要能有重要內容可說。依照評選標準所闡明的,這個地方必須是“對人類有重要意義”。


So it has taken a lot of hard work to formulate an application. There was a huge amount of preparation work and it has taken many years. The effort culminated in December 2016 when curator Christian Koch Madsen from the National Museum of Greenland and architect Bolette Lehn from The Board of Culture were interviewed at the UNESCO headquarters in Paris. Up to 20 experts were seated in the room and were able to ask questions during the 30-minute long session.
因此,起草申請需要做大量的繁重工作。有巨大的準備工作,并且需要花費很多年的時間。到了2016年12月,當格陵蘭國家博物館館長Christian Koch Madsen和文化文員會建筑師Bolette Lehn被聯合國教科文組織總部在巴黎召見,所有這些努力達到高潮。那里將要面對的是,20多位專家聚集房間,長達30分鐘的會議,可能要問到的很多問題。


– It felt like an examination, but we were prepared for most of the questions and they indicated that they were pleased with our input. I believe we have a strong case, says Christian Koch Madsen.
——“感覺就像是一場考試,但是對大多數的問題我們都有準備,他們也指出對我們的回答很滿意。我相信我們有強有力的論據”,Christian Koch Madsen 說。

? ? (上圖)Until now, the Ice Fjord at Ilulissat is the only unique natural site to be put on the list. Here, the influx of tourists has grown hugely.
到目前為止,以魯利賽特(Ilulissat)的冰峽灣是申遺名單中唯一的獨特的自然景觀。這里游客大批涌入,數量猛增。


Bridging the gap ?縮小差距

Former curator at the National Museum of Greenland, Georg Nyegaard, is also optimistic. 10 years ago, he was assigned to the steering committee of the time.
格陵蘭國家博物館前任館長Georg Nyegaard也表示很樂觀。10年前,他被委派到當時的籌備委員會。


– I always believed we would succeed. The original idea came from back in Jonathan Motzfeldt’s time. Since then, work of varying intensity has been done on the project, he says and substantiates his faith in the application thus:
——“我一直相信我們能夠成功。這事的最初構想起于Jonathan Motzfeldt任職時期(1979年擔任格陵蘭第一任首相,2010年10月28日去世)。從那時起,這個項目的不同程度的工作就開始著手”,Georg Nyegaard說。同時他還對申請充滿信心的緣由給出了如下的實證描述:


“East Greenland has inalienable values and the Arctic is on everyone’s lips due to the climate”
格陵蘭東部有不可剝奪的價值,因為氣候原因,北極是一個人人議論熱點。


– In 2008 there was a scientific conference about the Norse settlers in connection with the 600th anniversary for the wedding in Hvalsey Church. There were 60-70 leading specialists and there was broad consensus that South Greenland had a huge potential as a world heritage site. There are many qualities: The well-preserved sites, not least the church ruins where you really feel the history. And it was here, that the first cultural meeting between east and west - the Inuit and the Europeans – took place.
——2008年,在霍爾西教堂(Hvalsey Church)婚禮600年紀念的之際(見下注)召開過關于挪威移民的學術會議。有60~70位的重要專家到會,并達成了廣泛共識,認為格陵蘭南部有巨大潛力成為世界文化遺產地。它具備很多特質:保存良好的遺址,尤其是教堂遺跡,讓你真正能夠感受到歷史。也是在這里,東方和西方的文明之間第一次產生交匯——因紐特人和歐洲人——做到的。
【譯者注】霍爾西教堂遺址——格陵蘭南部Qaqortoq附近的維京時期挪威人建造的石教堂的廢墟。現存有保留下來的1408年在這里舉行過婚禮的文獻記錄。這也被視為在格陵蘭的維京定居者的最后一個書面記錄。以后挪威人就離開了格陵蘭。
The nominated farming landscape is almost 350 square kilometres and covers localities that represent the Greenlandic Norse culture. The top attractions are Erik the Red’s farm, Brattahlid in Qassiarsuk and the seat of the bishop at Gardar in Igaliku. Curator Inge Bisgaard explains that it has been a challenge to link Norse history with Inuit history. They are chronologically separate, but historically connected periods.
被提名的方圓350平方公里的農業景觀以及所覆蓋地區,代表了格陵蘭斯堪的納維亞文化特色。最有吸引力的是位于Qassiarsuk的紅胡子埃里克農場,伊奎利庫村落(Igaliku)加達(見下注)主教的座堂。
【譯者注】霍爾西教堂遺址——格陵蘭南部Qaqortoq附近的維京時期挪威人建造的石教堂的廢墟。現存有保留下來的1408年在這里舉行過婚禮的文獻記錄。這也被視為在格陵蘭的維京定居者的最后一個書面記錄。以后挪威人就離開了格陵蘭。

– But we have succeeded in weaving the history together very well in the final application, she notes.
——“但是在最終的申請資料中,我們已經成功地把歷史非常好地編織到了一起,”

World heritage on a big scale 大規模的世界遺產


The dream of finding a place in nature’s ?Hall of Fame? also lives elsewhere. For several years, Qeqqata Kommunia has worked on the formulation of an application and they have got so far in the process that their goal is within reach.
找到一處符合大自然“名人堂”的地方的夢想,也在其他地方存在。Qeqqata政府就曾做出努力提交了申請,到目前為止他們正在進行中,目標似乎近在咫尺。

– The technical part has been approved and the application is also most ready to be sent off. The process will probably culminate in 2018, says curator Christian Koch Madsen.
——“技術部分已經被證明,申請材料也已經準備呈送。這個過程可能在2018年達到高潮”,Christian Koch Madsen說。

The area lies between Sisimiut and Kangerlussuaq and stretches from the icecap, over enormous reindeer hunting areas to fjords and islands with many prehistoric settlements. It is a gigantic area of 4,000 square kilometres; ten times bigger than the area in South Greenland.
這個地方位于Sisimiut市和Kangerlussuaq市之間,從冰蓋地帶開始,穿過大型的馴鹿狩獵區,一直延伸到峽灣和有著許多史前部落遺址的群島。這是4000平方公里的巨大區域,是南部格陵蘭的十倍。
The first Eskimos from the Dorset and Saqqaq Cultures lived here and there are plenty of archaeological traces: Turf walls, shooting hides, graves, fox traps and tent rings. There are also more modern finds such as a fort from the 1700’s on the island of Nipisat. In all, the area contains cultural sites from the history of the Inuit in West Greenland throughout 4,500 years.
由多塞特文化(見下注)和薩卡克文化(見下注)形成的最早的愛斯基摩人就居住在這里,這里存有很多考古遺跡:草皮墻,狩獵掩體,墳墓,狐貍陷阱,壓帳篷的石頭圈。這里也有很多更現代的發現,比如Nipisat島上的18世紀的炮臺。總之,這個地區有很多格陵蘭西部4500多年間的因紐特人的歷史文化遺跡。
【譯者注】1、多塞特文化——北美北極地區從公元100年延續到1000年的因紐特人文化。
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?2、薩卡克文化——一群叫做薩卡克的古人獨立地到達北美洲,形成薩卡克文化。這個群體約在4750年前至2500年前居住于格陵蘭島,他們也是黃種人,不幸后來滅絕。

? ? ?(上圖)The people behind the new UNESCO application believe Greenland’s hunting culture is an inalienable cultural heritage
? 新的聯合國教科文世界文化遺產申請者堅信,格陵蘭狩獵文化是歷史文化遺產不可分割的一部分。

Under-represented 代表性地點尚有不足

The country’s fourth municipality, Sermersooq, also has plans to join the races for UNESCO approval. Mayor Asii Chemnitz Narup is behind the initiative together with two East Greenland council members Justus Hansen and Vittus Mikaelsen. They point out the unique hunting environment around Tasiilaq and the surrounding villages as an obvious choice.
格陵蘭第四行政市Sermersooq,也有計劃參與到教科文組織認證的競賽中來。市長Asii Chemnitz Narup支持東格陵蘭委員會兩位成員Justus Hansen和Vittus Mikaelsen的創意計劃。他們指出Tasiilaq周圍獨特的狩獵環境,以及周圍的村落,是明顯的選擇。

– We know from the other places that it is a long process. But now the idea has been born and we have faith in it. East Greenland has inalienable values and the Arctic is on everyone’s lips due to the climate. This interest should pave the way for more world heritage sites, says Justus Hansen.
“我們從其他地方的經歷中獲知,申遺是一個漫長的過程。但是現在主意已出,我們對此持有信心。格陵蘭東部有不可剝奪的價值,因為氣候原因,北極是一個人人議論熱點。這一利益點應該為更多的世界文化遺產地的申請鋪平道路。” Justus Hansen說。
UNESCO is aware that the Arctic is strongly under-represented on the list. While Italy is represented with 51 sites and smaller countries such as Belgium and Denmark have 12 and seven respectively, the entire Arctic has only a handful of sites.
聯合國教科文組織意識到北極是申遺列表中的強烈性的非代表性的。意大利有51處,比利時和丹麥這樣的小國家也分別有12處和7處。全部的北極只有一處遺址。

UNESCO intends to do something about this imbalance. In 2016, a meeting was held at the UNESCO headquarters in Paris where researchers met to discuss the possibility of getting on more Arctic ?marine environments ?on the list. This work is now up and running, supported by the Prince Albert of Monaco Foundation.
聯合國教科文組織有意向對這種不平衡做出行動。2016年,在巴黎的聯合國教科文組織總部招待的一個會議,研究人員齊聚一起探討得到北極“海洋基金的資產”進入名單。這個工作現在正在運作中,獲得了摩納哥阿爾伯特王子的支持。

? ? ? (上圖)In the south, the landscape is rich in Norse ruins.在格陵蘭南部,有著豐富的早年挪威人留下遺跡。


? ? ?
(上圖)The hunting culture has developed over thousands of years. It is the same with the kayak: from the
watertight, scraped sealskins – to the plastic version.
狩獵文化已有數千年的發展歷史。這是愛斯基摩人的皮劃船(kayak):當年是用特殊處理的防水的海豹皮制作——現在則使用塑料材料制作。

– The Arctic offers wildlife that is not found anywhere else on earth, for example narwhals, walrus and Greenland whales. The Arctic is also ground zero for climate changes, it said in a statement from the meeting of experts in Paris.
——“北極圈能提供世界上獨一無二的野生動物,比如獨角鯨、海象和格陵蘭鯨魚。北極圈也是氣候變化的零地帶”,巴黎會議上的專家們發表的聲明中如是說。

So this summer, when the Polish chairman of UNESCO, Jacek Purchla, puts South Greenland’s proposal on the table in front of the other 20 committee members, the chances are improved not just by a well-documented application, but also by the fact that the Arctic is riding on a general wave of goodwill. ?
因此這個夏天,當波蘭教科文組織全國委員會主席Jacek Purchla教授
把格陵蘭南部的申請材料放在其他20名成員的面前,申請成功的機會又得以往前推進,這不僅僅因為申請材料證據充足,還由于北極圈之美譽已經風靡世界。

? ?(上圖)UNESCO has acknowledged that the Arctic is strongly under-represented on the list of world heritage sites. Three new Greenlandic candidates are being prepared. Here is a mountain in East Greenland – shaped like a pyramid!
聯合國教科文組織已經認可,在世界文化遺產名錄中北極圈的代表性地點不足。三個格陵蘭的新的候選項正在準備中。圖中是格陵蘭東部的一座冰山——形狀就像金字塔。

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