1800 - 1809
EMPIRE LINES
Fashion magazines produced hand-colored plates for each month, specifying whether a dress was best for morning, afternoon, or evening wear, or designed for a special occasion.
In France the so-called Empire line had been fashionable since the 1790s (Napoleon became emperor in 1804).
This simple style was inspired by classical Greek and Roman statuary, where figures were draped in fabric with minimal ornamentation.
Waistlines were high and skirts had short trains until 1807 when straighter lines were favored.
The palette at this time was white or pastel shades, although trim and accessories could add brighter accents.
Corseting was unboned but corded corsets separated the breasts and controlled waist and hips with back lacing.
Dresses with short sleeves in simple cotton muslin required stoles and capes or pelisses to provide warmth.
Some dresses were overlaid with layers of lace and gauze.
Gradually, more exotic accessories became available, such as parasols and embroidered shawls from India.
GETTING DRESSED
A women of substance required a lady’s maid to help her dress, particularly to get her into her corset.
In this period corsets were long line and unboned, and worn over a linen shift called a chemise, drawers - of linen, cotton, or stockinette - and stockings with decorative embroidery.
The maid would then assist with the sleeveless dress, which was filmy and clinging, and put on jewelry as required before helping to curl and pin her mistress’s hair under a bonnet or a bandeau trimmed with feathers.
公元1800 - 1809年
帝國系列
時尚雜志每個月推出手繪色板,指導一件禮服最適合在上午,下午或是晚間穿著,或者推出一些為特別場合而設計的款式。
在法國,自十八世紀90年代起稱呼的帝國系列就是時髦的象征(拿破侖在1804年稱帝)。
這種簡單風格是受到古典希臘語羅馬雕像的啟發,穿著者被垂墜的面料包圍,佩戴極少的飾物。
腰線很高,裙擺伴隨短拖尾,直到1807年直線條變得非常受歡迎。
這段時期的色調以白色或柔和色調為主,裁剪與配飾可以作為提亮。
緊身胸衣是無骨的,但也不再將胸部包裹在內了,只利用背帶調整腰部與臀部。
簡潔的棉質薄紗短袖長裙,需要披肩和斗篷來提供溫暖。
一些禮服裙覆蓋著花邊與網紗。
漸漸地,越來越多異國情調配飾稱為可能,例如遮陽傘與披肩都來自于印度。
打扮梳妝
女性需要一位女傭來幫助她裝扮,特別是幫助穿上緊身胸衣。
在這個時期緊身胸衣是長款且無骨的,伴隨一層亞麻里襯我們稱之為chemise的襯裙,以及裝飾刺繡的襪子。
女傭之后會協助穿上朦朧的無袖裙裝,戴上珠寶,在此之前還會幫女主人卷曲與固定好她們的頭發,保證頭發在帽子或者羽毛裝飾的皮帶之下。