#每天讀一點服裝史# RECONSTRCTION

RECONSTRCTION

COTE - HARDIE

This carefully constructed replica of a parti-colored medieval cote-hardie (outer dress), with its undergarments, is in blue and murrey (mulberry-red).

It follows the styles found on memorial brasses from around 1375-85, which show the wives of knights and barons in formal or courtly dress.

The cut and constructionh -- four A-line, floor-length panels of fulled (thickened) wool twill with short inset sleeves -- have been conjectured by dressmaker Sarah Thursfield.

Although the shape looks simple to modern eyes, the figure-hugging cut and low neck were considered shocking at the time, and the bright dyes and rows of tiny buttons were condemned as extravagant.

Under the dress is a gray wool kirtle, lined with blue linen and laced at the center front.

Cotehardie for men


TWO FOR ONE

The mi-parti (part-colored) effect of this dress was very fashionable.

The dress is constructed in identical halves so it appears entirely red from one side and entirely blue from the other.

圖片發自簡書App


INNOVATIONS

Earlier dresses had long tippets cut as part of the sleeve and faced with fur.

The white cloth streamers on this cote-hardie could be a successor to these.

Buttons were fashionable for both men and women: the most expensive, with precious stones, were made by goldsmiths; cheaper ones were cast in pewter.

圖片發自簡書App


重建

柯特哈蒂裙

這款精心構造的半身復合色彩中世紀cote-hardie柯特哈蒂裙(外衣),在貼身內衣之上,是雙色的拼接。

它遵循了來自1375至85年黃銅紀念碑上的風格,它展現了騎士與男爵的妻子正式有禮的穿著。

剪裁與構造 - 四條A字形,拖地長度的羊毛斜紋面料配上短的內接袖 - 被裁縫師Sarah Thursfield推測出來。

盡管用現代眼光看這些廓形很簡單,但在當時這樣的貼身裁剪與低領設計是非常令人震驚的,再加上亮麗染色與小排紐扣已經是非常奢侈的了。

哈蒂裙下是一條羊毛袍子,里面以亞麻襯里裝飾,并在前胸中間加上綁帶。

圖片發自簡書App


合二為一

這件裙子的拼色效果在當時是非常時尚的。

裙子是以相同的半片構造的,所以從一側看起來它完全是紅的,另一側則是完全藍色。

圖片發自簡書App


變革創新

早期的裙裝上有長長尖尖的下垂設計,表面會鑲一塊毛皮。

這款哈蒂裙上的白色飄帶可能是這種設計的延續。

紐扣對男女來說都是時尚:最昂貴的鑲嵌寶石的是由金匠制作的;便宜的用鉛和錫的合金制作。

圖片發自簡書App
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